There are many different types of oiler available, probably the most popular and well known being the scottoiler. The choice is from systems with a bottle you just give an occasional squeeze to send some oil to the dispensing nozzle at one end to electronically controlled systems at the other end of the scale.
So why did I decide to fit an oiler ? I had a chain break on one of my GPZ 900R s some years ago. To be fair I hadn't maintained the chain as well as I should and the bike had been parked up for the winter in the UK. I had been for a ride a few months earlier when then was salt on the roads due to icy conditions and I had parked it up without thoroughly cleaning my chain and the salt had started some bad corrosion on my low mileage chain (4000miles)..
Anyway out for a ride with a couple of mates in the Norfolk countryside when a huge bang and shuddering form the back of the bike. One of the sideplates on the chain had snapped in two, I was very lucky it didn't all get wrapped around my rear wheel. Anyway after a change of underwear the recovery service arrived to take me home.
Anyway decided to go for a Pro-oiler after looking at countless write ups on the web. Certainly not cheap ( cost NZ$ 310 delivered from Europe ) but I did like the quality and their attention to detail.
Oiler arrived in 7 days from Europe.
|Contents of Pro oiler Kit|
As the FJ has a mechanical speedo I had to fit a reed switch and magnet to the rear wheel, the system activates the pump every so many wheel revolutions depending on how rich the system is set.
If you tell proiler what bike you are fitting it to they pre programme the unit for your particular wheel size chain size length etc. Mine was already set by them and upon first reading the instructions it can look a bit mind boggling.
Anyway cable tied and glued the small reed switch to the rear caliper carrier, you also get a small magnet that fitted very tightly into one of the allen screws that hold on the brake disc.
|Reed Switch fitted to caliper bracket|
|Pro-oiler Controler |
Prooiler supply self adhesive velcro lads to install the components but I chose to use long cable ties that went around the whole battery box seemed more secure to me.
|Junction box with oil pump fitted below|
The nozzle that dispenses the oil onto the rear sprocket. This is an area there are different versions but I thought the proiler dual sided nozzle was one of the best. The nozzle comes with a nice stainless bracket that can be glued or bolted to the swinging arm. As the FJ1200 has a steel swinging arm I decided that two small holes and bolting it on was the best way to go. Not sure if I would with an alloy swinging arm.
|Nozzle Set up|
I have done just over 1000kms with the oiler installed and very pleased with results.
The chain remains very clean, i am using just normal engine oil as it flings off the dirt with the oil. One of the problems with sticky chain grease it it does stick to the chain but so does all the dirt and grit forming a grinding paste type effect. The chain remains just lightly oiled and very clean.
I did find that the oil fling off was covering my number plate and would cover my panniers if fitted so decided to make an extension to the chain guard this has worked very well, there is some fling off onto the tyre and wheel but being plain engine oil is very easy to clean off.
|Chain Guard Extension|
As a Footnote
I sent a few pictures to Pro-oiler http://www.pro-oiler.net/ as they have a gallery of differant bike fitments but the FJ1200 was not there. I did find it usefull when panning my install though to look at what other people had done.
I got a great reply from Arnold at pro-oiler below
Thank you very much for the pictures,
We uploaded them to our gallery.
If you like, we could put your name/site under the pics:
Photo's courtesy of Phil Biggs from New Zealand
Sometimes people don't like their name published, so therefore I am asking.
Pro-Oilers are programmed a bit on the rich side, judging from the pics, I'd say you can select a lower setting, like 2 or even 1.
If there's still too much fling off, you can select a leaner table (14 or 15) and save the new table.
Panniers influence the drag too, so that's also a reason for a lower setting.
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